- FashionUnited |
Military jackets, elongated blazers and high waisted trousers were just some of the looks at Lanvin's AW15 presentation. It was as utilitarian as it was rock & roll, like a Prince of Wales check versus tailored joggers. Layered knits over shirts were a 70s reference, as has been seen at several shows. Coats over parkas and bomber jackets over cropped ones confirmed the idea that tailoring and casual be mixed into one look.
Soft, fluid and seventies was the order of the day at Paul Smith. Oversized wool outerwear in grey toned checks draped over trousers that sat above the waist. A suit in faded orange broke the grey spell, as did the finale of fur coats, which were as relevant back in the day as they would be on today's rap stars. Smith said: "The skill of being a designer is to have a very childlike outlook on life. Like Picasso said, even as he got older he tried to have the eyes of a child and to paint with freedom."
Thom Browne followed Comme des Garcons ceremonial presenation, although his more funereal than anything to do than tattoo artistry. Models in topcoats and hats opened the show, conveying the concept of mourning in something beautiful and rich. As for the clothes, they came all in black, but there was a wealth of offering, like a black leather car coat, a fur-trimmed peacoat as well as Browne's signature jackets and tailoring.
The skinniest of jeans, a tucked in striped sweater under a peacoat, this could only be Saint Laurent. Rock and laid-back chic is the foundation of the new YSL brand under director Hedi Slimane. A skinny pinstripe suit with a white tie could be stage attire for the sartorially confident lead singer, whilst off-duty he could slip into the skintight leather trousers worn with a fur coat. Flashes of red, hot pink and zebra print injected the mostly black and grey collection. A multi zip leather trouser - count 9 zips on the front of each leg - will be the Saint Laurent press item of the season.