- FashionUnited |
Valentinoopted for utility chic its AW15 men's presentation in Paris on Thursday. Inspired by images of the Ballet Russes in Paris and the Beat generation in San Francisco, their ideas were translated by Australian artist Esther Stewart, whose signature geometric patterns were featured on tailored overcoats, parkas, bomber jackets and knitwear. Even their signature camouflage, pale and deconstructed in a grey tones, looked fresh and new.
Raf Simons presented a directional collection, with graffiti lab coats and flared trousers as a new way of dressing next season. It was 70s rockstar, with hints of rebelling youth with a mix of sportswear thrown in. The graffiti prints found themselves on a long and lean silhouette, such as sleeveless, raw edged lab coats, and worn with knitted trousers that seamed to flare at the end. Colours included white with flashes of bright yellow and red alongside browns and black. Simons' tailoring was remixed with outerwear that never steers far from his futurist path.
British designer Christopher Nemeth served as the inspiration for the AW15 Louis Vuitton collection. Nemeth's codes for the deconstruction trend in the Eighties were seen in original prints such as hand-drawn rope-like patterns crafted onto outerwear, trousers and knits. Denim came needle-punched and was teamed with luxurious indigo cashmeres and outdoors parkas. Sport, luxury and travel were at the heart of this collection.
Rick Owens may or may not have anticipated that a little male nudity can send shockwaves to the public. When a woman's nipple is exposed on a catwalk nobody bats an eyelid, but barely a glimpse of a man's genitalia and we are reduced to oohs, ahhs, and a media storm of commentary. What was mostly a conservative show for Owens, with double breasted coats in leather, suede and canvas, it was the toga gowns and curved hemlines that were Owens' more challenging silhouettes. When asked why he chose to expose the models, Owens stated: “Nudity is the most simple and primal gesture, it packs a punch. It’s powerful. It’s a straight world now. It says something about being independent. Who else can really get away with this stuff? It’s a corporate world!
Dries van Noten took Historical references and subtle Eastern elements to present his collection, which always resonates with a luxurious nomadic spirit. Navy and khaki were the primary colours with key styles including overcoats and shirts were embellished with silver ornaments and quilted blazers warn apron-like kilts over trousers highlighted. Traditional coats and blazers were worn inside out to parade the delicate quilted linings in tricolour satin.