- FashionUnited |
Shirtdresses and coats were the order of the day at Sacai. Outerwear was best in combinations of baseball jackets and feral furs, cable knits and windowpane checks. The silhouette was a women's version of a men's-sized garment, but it was the detailing that stood out, like fur peeking out from under collars, cuffs, and sleeves of wool and tweed coats. There was a hint of colour in looks 8 and 9, but mostly designer Chitose Abe stuck to what she knows best, which is mostly playing with proportion, silhouette and painstaking detailing which make the garments unique to Sacai.
Sonia Rykiel must have found inspiration inside a collegiate library, as the catwalk production was set with 50,000 books lining the shelves. Models were bookish with over the knee socks and wore velvet, oversize sweaters and striped furs. Retro colour stories of cognac, black, and neutrals were offset by modern metallic silver leather and navy blue brushed mohair in oversized sweaters. Lengths were either mini or ankle length with column and A-line silhouettes. Jumpsuits made a major statement in deep velvet solids and patterns with cape attachments. Key styles were a peacoat, trench and Rykiel's signature stripes in knitwear, dresses and fur coats.
There was plenty of leather on show at Hermès, which saw the debut collection of its new creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski. Leather is a staple fabric at Hermès, and on the catwalk it ranged from utility overalls to jackets and coats with oversized collars and suede patch closures, quilted outerwear, skirt suits, and trousers. The trouser was key, with leather and suede panels intertwined that came in black and a subdued red, two of this collection's main colours. Later these merged with navy, a touch of yellow, and beige tones, but the red felt a delicious and luxurious choice for the house. A red stripe on double-faced cashmere blanket coats with quilted under layers was another key style, and felt a reference to its equestrian heritage, as were the pockets shaped like saddle bags.
The Saint Laurent starlet hasn't dramatically changed her looks in the last two seasons, but noting the House's quarterly sales figures, which rose 25 percent, Hedi Slimane knows how to please his customers. And who needs a makeover when you're already rock & roll? No surprise then when the first look was a tulle prom dress worn with a grey wool check blazer. The skinny smoking suit, leather jackets worn over thigh skimming dresses, laddered tight, spiky boots and red lipstick remain the classic Saint Laurent look. Elsewhere animal-print capes, navy peacoats, leather motorcycle jackets, and patchwork furs made up the outerwear. The runway look may be dishevelled, but the truth is these pieces are finely executed and the craftsmanship is key to Saint Laurent's success.
Images: PFW AW15 Sacia, Sonia Rykiel, Hermes, Saint Laurent