- FashionUnited |
Our first day's highlights come courtesy of former CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Winner's Public School who have really won the industry's eye, Timo Weiland who has been eyeing growth with an outside investment this year, making him more particular about his collections than ever, Robert Geller, the hidden gym of New York men's wear who practically has a cult following, Anzevino Getty who is a favorite of eastdane.com e-commerce shoppers, and Nick Graham who showed his first complete men's wear collection.
Many have speculated what the NYFW: Men's week shows would look like compared to their European counterparts, where the theme from London to Milan was "the dandy man." The dandy man trend involved making men's wear more feminine, having a certain level of androgyny, and even mixing in female models to model men's wear. American designers have seemed to stick to keeping their clothes more traditionally masculine, but have broken away from the rigid era of tailored suiting, jackets, and pants.
Public School's presentation proved that men's fashion is all about freedom right now. Their collection included lots of black and white offerings, with everything from classic t-shirts, black statement coats, and comfortable joggers. No one has managed to make athleisure look more high-end than they have, and they have always managed to stay true to their laid-back classic New York public school inspired aesthetic.
Timo Weiland, on the other hand, still kept his looks comfortable with shorts, sportshirts, and jackets that left room to breathe, but got a little more colorful with blue plaid pants, a green zig-zag striped shirt, and beige shorts. A major theme in American men's wear right now is how much can we elevate a pair of shorts. Shorts, which were seen as the ultimate symbol of casual, have worked their way into American men's wear as something that designers have decided to work into the luxury market, doing items like suit shorts and pairing them with fine blazers.
Anzevino Getty fell right in that line between Public School and Timo Weiland, where everything was about the comforts of athleisure, but, there was still color like canary yellow and funky patterns like black and white blots to catch your eye. Their collection was all about the joggers, which are becoming a major staple in American men's wear. For the presentation, joggers were paired with everything from blazers to fine leather jackets, the ultimate rebellion against tailored pants there will ever be.
Day 2 of NYFW:Men's gave us athleisure and deconstructed silhouettes
In the spirit of true fashion freedom, Robert Geller went completely against the dandy man trends of Europe and everything we may have ever learned about men's fashion in our lives and gave us a collection of utilitarian deconstructed silhouettes that was high fashion at its most free. Geller sent deconstructed coats, loose fitting trousers, and jumpsuits (yes, jumpsuits) down the runway. Where the jumpsuit has long been seen as a staple in the women's wardrobe, it is beginning to work it's way into men's wear, thanks to designers like Geller.
If there was one designer who took a page out of Europe's book it would have to be designer Nick Graham. Graham's collection, which was presented at Milk Studios, offered the businessman the finest of suiting, but none of that old school boring black and white stuff. Instead he used navy, grey, royal blue, and even a black and grey floral pattern for his suit offerings. His shirt choices were playful and fun as well, with stripes, polka dots, and plaid that proved that men's formal wear doesn't need to be bland.
Shades of green, pink, and purple brought vivid life to the collection, and gave the entire industry hope that the era of the drab but fab in men's formal wear is probably over. Some designers, however, took the concept of future to a whole different level. Rochambeau, the progressive label by Laurence Chandler and Josh Cooper, had a very futuristic theme for their runway show.
The collection featured a lot of chromatic neutrals, with materials like nylon and leather giving a very next millennium vibe to the collection. If Rochambeau was trying to say this is where men's fashion could be heading, it's unclear if any other designers will follow suit, but it was certainly original. Overall, day 2 of NYFW: Men's has given us real insight to the state of American men's fashion, and freedom looks like it is here to stay.