- Don-Alvin Adegeest |
New York Fashion Week got off to a directional start with Givenchy's spring summer 16 presentation, setting the tone for an eclectic and innovative fashion week. On the whole, collections were aimed at a wider and commercially focused market, but there was plenty of fashion forward presence and innovation.
Sport luxe is embedded in American fashion and culture and this season lightweight technical fabrics, like nylon, focused on comfort and performance wear. A sporty aesthetic was seen at Alexander Wang, Rag & Bone and 3.1 Phillip Lim.
Silk and satin were key fabrics for SS16, with especially satin sheen a popular choice for luxurious eveningwear. Satin fabrics were seen teamed with minimalist sports jackets, tunics and cami dresses, for a more contemporary look.
Florals were big in New York and felt contemporary and artisan, with large exotic blooms, some of which appeared hand-painted.
Bohemian looks were a significant trend, not least with tie-dyes becoming a key print. Patchwork fabrics also continued this season, with designers using a medley of contrast prints to create an eclectic look, as seen at Tommy Hilfiger, Coach and BCBG Max Azria.
One of the staple colours of the season seen in New York was blue, with designers mixing and matching all shades in full looks for a deep, tonal aesthetic.
The blue tones off-set a neutral element, which came dedicate with lily white and paler shades of grey and beige.
There was also green that was seen on full looks in a variety of hues, seen at Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Jason Wu and Narciso Rodriguez.
Black and white looks were seen as a graphic element for spring and came sleek and elegant when used on contrasting materials and trimmings, as seen at Givenchy, Proenza Schouler and Diesel Black Gold.
There were plenty of commercial key items on the New York runways, including the staple parka, which came in a variety of lengths, although long felt contemporary and fluid.
Jumpsuits and all-in-ones appeared across several key designer collections, with inimalist lines in fluid fabrics used to create an oversized, relaxed silhouette, as seen at Opening Ceremony, Alexander Wang and Givenchy
Probably the key shape of the season is the wide-leg trouser, which saw waistlines softly-belted for a relaxed yet contemporary mood.
As the 90s makes a comeback, the slip dress continues to be a key shape, combining delicate maxi straps with easy throw-on silhouettes and flowing midi-to-maxi lengths.
The tunic is also popular, with DKNY, Derek Lam and also Givenchy using it as a key layering piece.
A key trend that was started by Gucci last season -neck, belt and closure ties - is here to stay. The ties define a new silhouette as designers experiment with organically drawn-in tops, jackets and dress styles.
Halter necklines with fine straps on maxi dresses and volume pieces felt new and flattering and proportioned the bellowing silks.
A look of bare shoulders was seen across many designers, with a new focus on the top silhouette. It added a sex appeal to otherwise modest looks.
Ruffles featured in abundance at the New York shows, with designers experimenting over a variety of fabrics, styles and lengths.This trend has already continued to be seen in London.
Soft, sporty tailoring is also a key style see in New York, with an emphasis on long, layered shapes with innovative detailing.
Lastly, short could be the new long, with micro skirts and shorts elongating the leg with nipped-in waists, which was seen in the younger market brands.