- Don-Alvin Adegeest |
Marc Jacobs on Thursday closed New York fashion week, reigniting the fashion press by doing something as novel as removing ostentatious and superfluous production and making the show about the clothes.
Guests were asked to not post anything on social media, followed by a runway show with no music. As models strutted by in silence, the end of the presentation took a diversion to the streets of Manhattan where the models stood in front of giant boomboxes and speakers.
The show heralded Jacobs back to his best. He had been seemingly disengaged after LVMH with several productions and shows that failed to cause a stir. This time round he payed homage to the world of hip-hop, summarised in the show notes as "a representation of the well-studied dressing up of casual sportswear, it is a gesture of my respect for the polish and consideration applied to fashion from a generation that will forever be the foundation of youth culture street style."
Jacobs gave us wearable street style
What Jacobs gave us was sheepskin, fur-collared jackets worn a size up, corduroy, hoodies, all worn with platforms and plenty of bling. It was Jacobs gone street style, but removed from the fantastical that it never felt unreal. These clothes were wearable, desirable and most of all commercial.
Because Jacobs could do with a commercial hit. Earlier this year LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault, parent of Jacobs' fashion empire, stated he was concerned more about Marc Jacobs than President Trump. The brand's economic health has come into question as it is the only LVMH business in the red.
Jacobs once toyed with floating the company on the stock market, but to date has struggled to regain the momentum from the early noughties. After it shuttered its diffusion line Marc by Marc Jacobs in 2015 the brand has been veering in a new direction, a fresh strategy of bringing both luxury and entry price points under one umbrella.
The idea seems like it is working, but the annual reports will tell us if if the strategy pays dividends.
Photo credit: Catwalkpictures