- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
Italian brand Fiorucci has unveiled the debut collection from its new menswear artistic director, British designer Daniel Fletcher with appointments during London Fashion Week Men’s.
The starting point for the autumn/winter 2020 collection for Fletcher began with a visit to the Italian labels archive, explained the show notes, where the designer “unearthed pieces that spoke of the brand’s disco past” with original sketches, denim handpainted by Keith Haring and personal artefacts belonging to Elio Fiorucci.
“I think it’s every designer’s dream to go into a brand with an archive this rich and be able to use it to create something new,” explained Fletcher on his new appointment. “Fiorucci is not just about fashion, it’s about music and art and there’s a spirit that is unlike any other brand that makes it so special.”
Fletcher has combined these archival tributes with inspiration from New York nightlife in the 1970s and London’s club scene, to create what the label describes as a “hedonistic melting pot of sex, music and expression” with a “touch of Italian flare”.
Fiorucci unveils debut collection from new menswear artistic director, Daniel Fletcher
For autumn/winter 2020, these influences find themselves worked over core cotton and denim pieces, running alongside racing overalls reworked into a contemporary silhouette. Satin has also become a key motif, with Fletcher inspired by that disco heritage, worked the fabric into the collection with bomber jackets and appliquéd ‘bang’ motif shirts.
Fletcher added: “For me, Fiorucci is a party brand and I wanted to capture some of that magic. This mix of silhouette, colour palette and references shouldn’t necessarily work together but somehow do in a strange, wonderful melting pot that frames my first collection for Fiorucci.”
The menswear collection introduces tailoring for the first time with flared wool trousers, a mustard tuxedo jacket and checked overcoats, as the luxury label looks to grow its menswear category and international appeal.
There is also a touch of Fletcher’s own aesthetic, with the British designer showcasing his expertise with knitwear to the collection through zebra tanks and lambswool crewnecks, which have been styled with vinyl trousers and printed silk shirts.
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Images: courtesy of Fiorucci, photography by Antonio Mingot