- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
While ready-to-wear brands have just shown their spring/summer 2020 collections during New York, London, Milan and Paris fashion weeks, the biggest brands in bridal, ranging from Vera Wang to Monique Lhuillier and Galia Lahav showcased their autumn/winter 2020 bridal ranges as part of Bridal Fashion Week in New York. FashionUnited has picked out its 7 standout collections that it thinks brides will be wearing in 2020.
Viktor and Rolf
Avant-garde fashion house Viktor and Rolf showcased their latest bridal collection in partnership with Justin Alexander inspired by the winter garden with gowns featuring intricate frost interpretations of classic bridal elements and seasonal flower embellishments. Classic tweed and traditional lace are unexpectedly re-interpreted with frosted embroideries and crystal patterns, while elegant, fitted and voluminous silhouettes are enhanced by delicately frosted tweed and frosted fur embroideries.
Other standout detailing includes organically wrapped bows, dramatically draped wild roses with graphic petal detailing which gives each of the gowns a sculptural edge, and Wisteria vines which add an ethereal touch and movement to the collection.
Standout looks: the ‘Diana Dream’ is a theatrical taffeta gown with a plunging V-neck that is entirely constructed in petticoat style, while the open-back gives way to an elaborate signature bow and voluminous train that highlights the extravagance of the gown, and the introduction of the dramatic high-low shirt dress, a feminine interpretation of a masculine shirt featuring a shirt collar and modern plastron detailing, while the hem is adorned with an extravagant volant that gives way to a striking Watteau train.
Images: courtesy of Viktor and Rolf
Classic was one of the hot trends from Bridal Fashion Week and Carolina Herrera showcased a beautiful array of traditional silhouettes, from strapless a-line gowns to ballgowns with each featuring subtle detailing to make them stand out. One dress had an exposed crystal embroidered corset and cascade draped back bow, while others featured cream floral threadwork embroidery against ivory satin, and another was a strapless trumpet gown with organza floral lace and detachable sleeves.
Standout looks: the ‘Madalyn’, a strapless rose embroidered silk mikado bodice with a pleated ball skirt and degrade embroidery, and the ‘Marabelle’, an elegant draped off-shoulder floral jacquard a-line gown.
Images: courtesy of Carolina Herrera
An “exuberance of colour” is how Monique Lhuillier describes its fall 2020 bridal collection, which it adds is inspired by embracing individualism, with bold colourful florals, botanical prints, and cloud-like volume proportions. Silhouettes are of poetic grandeur with billowing sleeves and exaggerated trains add a modern twist to traditional elements. There is also versatility to the collection with seamlessly detachable boleros, capes, and over-the-top veils completing each look. These are wedding dresses to make the bride the centre of attention.
Standout looks: ‘Secret Garden’, a pink tulle ballgown with a drop waist covered in oversized, 3D flower pompoms, ‘Wonder’ an ivory A-line tulle gown with poet sleeves in a colourful botanical and butterfly print, and ‘Hydrangea’, an off-the-shoulder ballgown with an all-over floral print.
Images: courtesy of Monique Lhuillier by KT Merry
Israeli-based bridal couture house Galia Lahav renowned for its embellishments and sexy silhouettes has been inspired by “light bouncing off of a brilliant diamond” for its fall 2020 couture bridal ‘Fancy White’ collection. With the aim of celebrating the beauty that is reflected from within, each layer of the airy gowns tell a story, “much like each layer of a woman’s personality tells her story,” adds the brand.
The collection features an array of flowing, soft silhouettes, such as A-line, mermaid, and ballgown shapes that have been modified to be voluminous, yet soft, fluid, and modern, while intricate lace peeks through light-as-air tulle, silk, and organza have been embellished by reflective finishes like beads and rhinestones, and subtle hues of ivory, blush, and lavender are played up with silver embroidery.
Standout looks: ‘Meghan’ is a strapless ballgown with a voluminous coat with balloon sleeves and an oversized statement bow, ’Anna’ is a silk satin column gown with thigh-high slit and off-the-shoulder straps and shown with silk satin cape, and ‘Aretha’ a stunning lilac and silver A-line wedding dress with plunging corset, off-the-shoulder tailored collar-style neckline, and pleated tulle and organza skirt.
Images: courtesy of Galia Lahav by Greg Swales
For fall 2020, Marchesa Bridal has been inspired by ‘ikebana’, the Japanese art of floral arrangements. Flowers have always been a signature of Marchesa, but this season within the traditions of ikebana, the essence of each flower, from the petal to the leaf has been emphasised using subtle curves and dramatic lines for a hyper-detailed approach. “Every detail is essential to the grand design,” adds Marchesa in the press notes.
Gently contoured tulle silhouettes are framed by branched arches and elaborate floral embellishments, while sculptural gowns draped in duchess satin and embroidered taffeta are balanced with floral corsages and contrasting sheer corsets.
Standout looks: A fit-and-flare wedding dress with a floral-embroidered bodice, ruffled tulle skirt, and ruffled tulle topper, a tulle wedding gown with floral appliqués, tied waist, beading, and billowy poet sleeves, and a lace appliqué wedding dress featuring tulle godets on the back.
Images: courtesy of Marchesa
This season, Anne Barge celebrated its 20th anniversary with a collection inspired by its own vintage designs, combining timeless silhouettes with new modern details, showcasing the brands evolution while also paying tribute to its original roots. The collection featured clean architectural designs made with fine Italian Kalika, for a simple-yet-refined look, while all over floral Alençon laces added an ultra-femme touch of elegance, and layers of delicately floating tulle were accented with 3D textures and metallic floral embroidery.
Standout looks: a bridal jumpsuit featuring a high-neck lace bustier with pearl chains dripping off its shoulders and a delicate floral ballgown with an illusion neckline.
Images: courtesy of Anne Barge by Seiji Fujimori
White One by Zac Posen
White One, the bridal brand from the Pronovias Group unveiled its latest collection of affordably priced wedding dresses designed by Zac Posen during Bridal Fashion Week in New York, featuring glamorous and romantic-style bridal looks from high-low skirts to dramatic princess ballgowns and form-fitted mermaid dresses with architectural trains.
The collection is inspired by nature, according to Zac Posen, in the show notes: "Mother Nature is the greatest creator and a bride on her wedding day is like a beautiful flower that blooms and sparkles of light.”
As you would expect from Posen there is a lot of structured forms and volumes to his sophisticated bridal collection, as well as couture-style techniques, reflected in the way of treating the fabrics, such as the layers of chiffon, the crêpe that covers the entire gown and pleated details that create a magnificent work of art.
Standout looks: ‘Tallulah’ a brightly coloured rainbow asymmetrical tulle gown, ‘Coco’ offers that princess moment with its corset full skirt ballgown made from rich taffeta fabric crisps, and ‘Dita’ oozes Old Hollywood with its subtle straight neckline coupled with the drama of a cape in a textured jacquard.
Images: courtesy of White One by Xavi Menos
Main image: courtesy of Viktor and Rolf and Monique Lhuillier by KT Merry