Bailey out, balloons on top: London Fashion Week wraps up

Christopher Bailey's goodbye as the head of Burberry, Christopher Kane's prints of women having orgasms and flamboyant balloon headdresses were among the highlights of London Fashion Week, which wrapped up on Tuesday.

Bye Bye Bailey

Burberry embarks on a new chapter in its history following Bailey's final catwalk for the quintessential British brand. The 46-year-old, who helped boost the historic company's fortunes, is leaving at the end of the year. He presented a very personal collection -- a homage to the LGBT community with designs inspired by the internationally recognised gay pride flag. The favourites to succeed him are Phoebe Philo, who was at Celine, and Kim Jones, formerly at Louis Vuitton, according to trade publications.

Click through the slideshow to take a look at the last collection of the designer.

Paisley and stamps

Shirts in the collection of J.W. Anderson, Jonathan Anderson's label, were adorned with paisley motifs. Paisley was also a feature for Mary Katrantzou, covering coats and pink-and-gold trousers. Margaret Howell also carried the pattern on vintage-style robes flowing down to the knee, worn with black socks and town shoes. Other motifs included still-life flowers for Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, abstract and minimalist figures for Roksanda and stamps for Temperley London.

Bailey out, balloons on top: London Fashion Week wraps up

All in Pink

Pink triumphed on London's catwalks. The colour of the season, peach-coloured "Millennial pink", was on show in the collections of J.W. Anderson, Emilia Wickstead and Molly Goddard. At Nicopanda's show, the pink was more candy-like and used for racy miniskirts. Roksanda and Jasper Conran opted for a yellow theme -- vibrant in the former and with more of an ochre hue in the latter.

Bailey out, balloons on top: London Fashion Week wraps up

So sexy

The women of Fashion Week were independent and wilful, proud of their femininity and sensuality... and sometimes super-sexy. Christopher Kane stole the show with a femme fatale little red dress -- ultra-short and transparent. The Scottish designer also used prints depicting women having orgasms from the 1972 bestseller "The Joy of Sex".

Bailey out, balloons on top: London Fashion Week wraps up

Frenchman Roland Mouret showed off a range of colourful lingerie and there were plenty of see-throughs and subtle sensuality in the designs of Supriya Lele, Charlotte Knowles and Mulberry.

Unusual accessories

Donut keyrings were spotted at J.W. Anderson, who also had pom-pom like rabbit ears sticking out of jumpers. Britain's Matty Bovan, who was making his fashion week debut, had a particularly eye-catching headdress design composed of red, gold, silver or tiger-skin balloons.

Bailey out, balloons on top: London Fashion Week wraps up

Gothic-punk Turkish designer Dilara Findikoglu adorned her belts with antique objects including mini-statues and black-and-white photos. Less fun but more provocative was a creation by Gareth Pugh, a mask made entirely of construction nails.

Clothes you wouldn't wear

Edwin Mohney, a young New York designer and graduate of London's Central Saint Martins school, showed off a giant pink dress in the form of a pink condom entirely covering the top half of the model's body. He is also the man behind "Trumpettos" -- stiletto shoes covered in masks of US President Donald Trump. (AFP)

Photo credits: Burberry Feb 18 & Catwalkpictures

Administering the Kiss of Life to New York Fashion Week

The nod to emergency services’ uniforms in Raf Simons’s collection for Calvin Klein could have been a metaphor for New York Fashion Week in its entirety. In CPR, the traditional ABC rule is Airway. Breathing, Chest compressions, and unfortunately, for Fall 18 the task of loosening up her clothing and resuscitating the victim was performed again by a passing stranger. Confronted by a fashion week in distress, with New Yorkers pretending not to notice, the Belgian is preserving the American Dream.

As Bruce Weber’s portfolio of all-American adventure evaporates like mist from the Long Island surf, and the velvet rope that linked the fashion industry to Hollywood smolders, and buzzier labels like Delpozo, Altuzarra, Thom Browne, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler and Tome flee to European fashion weeks, the city is left with a club of distinguished colonels polishing their medals and waxing nostalgic about the old days to the music of Cole Porter. At her final show Caroline Herrera was clapped out––to use a corporate term when an employee leaves a company––by a parade of crisp white shirts on the runway, collars popped.

A bullish lack of vision

In a globally-thriving luxury market the big American brands appear risk-averse and meek. The costume of capitalism––pea coats and polo shirts, insignia, crests, logos, and loafers––has been revisited in Coney Island Circus Sideshow-style by Gucci or clinically observed through a normcore filter by Vetements while American houses remain occupied with taking themselves terribly seriously. New York proudly ushers in the fashion month as a buttoned-up, pomaded Poindexter in business casual. It disavows newness in favor of classics based on hollow tradition and corporate-corroborated data. The irony of Simons presenting his acclaimed Calvin Klein show in the former American Stock Exchange Building on floors strewn with popcorn is cutting.

Administering the Kiss of Life to New York Fashion Week

While tumbleweed blows through Donna Karan, and Michael Kors trots out Melania Trump clones, and Robin Givhan of the Washington Post comments of Ralph Lauren, “One sometimes wonders if the design studios at Ralph Lauren are hermetically sealed. Do the windows open? Can any fresh air get in?” we are left hoping that CEO Steven Kolb, and key members of the CFDA, have been summoned around a conference table, and are at least discussing a pacemaker.

Kill your darlings

Recent successful designer placements have shown that hired creative talent doesn’t need to demonstrate a close affinity with an established house to successfully continue its legacy for a new generation. Should a house like Donna Karan languish because there can never be a second Ms Karan? Riccardo Tisci had little in common with Hubert de Givenchy but it didn’t stop him reinventing his house for the millennial. Pre-Klein, Simons had already facilitated Dior’s successful rebound after the house’s expulsion of predecessor John Galliano. Yves Saint Laurent’s soigné, urbane wildchild would not even have bought her drugs from Hedi Slimane’s grungey skulking wasted groupie but sales catapulted during Slimane’s four year tenure. Flamboyant showman John Galliano couldn’t have been more diametrically opposed to the reclusive artiste Martin Margiela but his manipulation of the maison’s manifesto over the last three years has been respectfully irreverent which, according to the Business of Fashion, has led to double-digit growth.

Passion and Profit

Renzo Russo, the brains behind the Galliano/Margiela merger, said of Maison Margiela, ‘It’s a niche brand. I want to have product with real passion, not become the biggest brand in the world.’ BoF goes on to reveal that Renzo “doesn’t anticipate that it will more than double in size from its current position (160 million dollars versus 5 billion dollars in revenue for a mega brand like Chanel).” Placing passion before profit, now that’s bullish thinking. Perhaps the struggling American houses must begin to accept that a creative director’s viewpoint should not be reduced to how well he understands your dna or how tenderly he will handle the archive. He’ll pick it up as he goes along, free from micromanaging, and he should be granted permission to kill your darlings in order to allow a new dialogue to open up around the brand. The result will be an authentic response to a house’s story rather than a memorized but forgettable soundbite.

Cultural appropriation done right

Bringing in a creative from outside the culture of the brand, rather than being a recipe for disaster, can be a life-giving force. It’s cultural appropriation done right. The outsider can revisit history, plucking and discarding and reassembling its codes in the most unexpected ways. Simons received criticism for the surprising decision to place the Kardashians in his ad campaign for Calvin Klein underwear, but it was January’s most viewed ad on Youtube with 15.4 million views which, if it translates to sales, affords him the space to continue his artist collaborations and subversive vision of modern America so appreciated on the runway.

The generation gap

Simons described the meaning behind his Calvin Klein collection as “an allegory for a meeting of old worlds and new worlds” which summarizes what’s missing on the NYFW runways. This generation gap between the glorious past and an uncertain future is echoed in Robin Givhan’s comment about the Ralph Lauren collection being “all legacy and tradition and not an ounce of fun.” So, adjusting the figures, could fun be figured in? One wonders what would happen if free agent Riccardo Tisci was drafted in to Donna Karan. What would a less cliché version of woman-friendly dressing look like at Diane von Furstenberg––could we entice Simone Rocha? How about lining up in the wings British wunderkind Matty Bovan for when Anna Sui retires her velvet and sequins? Instead of Gigi Hadid for Tommy Hilfiger. let’s try a real designer, say, Juun J, and see what he would concoct whisking together stateside staples of denim, streetwear and logos? Craig Green’s military-sharp tailoring and bold geometrics could be defibrillator paddles on the chest of the flatlining Michael Kors…Beeeeep beeeeeep, “Clear!”

New York Fashion Week, you’re fading fast. It’s time to call for emergency back up.

Photos from Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren via Catwalkpictures

Fashion editor Jackie Mallon is also an educator and author of Silk for the Feed Dogs, a novel set in the international fashion industry.

8 key moments not to miss this London Fashion Week

The fashion pack have left New York and are heading to London for a jam-packed schedule featuring more than 90 catwalk shows and presentations, and while Topshop, Julien Macdonald, Antonio Berardi, and Anya Hindmarch might be taking a break this season there are still a lot of highlights you won’t want to miss. We have the last collection from Christopher Bailey at Burberry, the debut of Josep Font’s Delpozo in London, and Richard Quinn will be showing on-schedule for the first time.

1. Christopher Bailey’s last Burberry show

Burberry has been a highlight fixture of London Fashion Week for a number of seasons, and that’s down to chief creative officer and president Christopher Bailey. The February 2018 collection marks the designer’s last collection for the luxury fashion house and it will be dedicated to Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transexual and Queer (LGBTQ+) communities, as part of Burberry’s commitment to promoting diversity around the world.

Commenting ahead of Saturday’s catwalk show, Bailey said: “My final collection here at Burberry is dedicated to - and in support of - some of the best and brightest organisations supporting LGBTQ+ youth around the world. There has never been a more important time to say that in our diversity lies our strength, and our creativity.”

This will be showcased with the introduction of a new Rainbow check, the latest iteration of Burberry’s most iconic symbol, based on the LGBTQ+ rainbow, an emblem for optimism and inclusiveness.

The Rainbow check pieces in the collection will be available for purchase immediately after the show in London on Saturday, February 17.

8 key moments not to miss this London Fashion Week

Image: courtesy of Burberry

2. Delpozo makes LFW debut

Demi-couture fashion house Delpozo is showing for the first time in London, following five years of showing at New York Fashion Week. The Spanish label helmed by Josep Font has been gaining acclaim for its unique and feminine pieces that embrace time-honoured couture traditions and the brand has been leaving hints of what we can expect from its autumn/winter 2018 collection.

The Instagram countdown at 10-days to go showcased an inky blue colour palette, which was followed by bright pink swatches and lily pads, and with five-days to go it unveiled more pink hues alongside yellow, as well as florals.

Delpozo will showcase on February 18.

3. JW Anderson to merge womenswear and menswear

The fashion trend of merging women’s and men’s for fashion week continues with Jonathan Anderson’s JW Anderson, which this season will see both its womenswear and menswear showcased for the first time together at London Fashion Week.

The JW Anderson show is always a hot ticket, the Northern Irish designer has been named the wunderkind of the London fashion scene for a number of years for his unique aesthetic that offers a modern interpretation of masculinity and femininity by creating thought-provoking silhouettes through a cross-pollination between menswear and womenswear elements.

JW Anderson catwalk show will take place on February 17.

4. Richard Quinn will be showing on schedule for the first time

If you haven’t heard of Richard Quinn yet, get ready, he is one of the hottest new talents on the official London Fashion Week schedule. The Central Saint Martens graduate wowed the fashion pack last season with his dark and subversive take on Liberty’s floral prints.

This may only be Quinn’s second season at London Fashion Week but his name is already getting out there due to work placements at Richard James on Savile Row and Christian Dior Couture in Paris, as well as winning the H&M Design Award, which helped his launch his own label after graduation, and being awarded ‘one to watch’ support from NewGen.

Richard Quinn will showcase his AW18 collection on February 20.

5. Lulu Guinness to make LFW debut

One of Britain’s best known accessory designer’s Lulu Guinness, known for her lip clutches, will be hosting her first ever London Fashion Week presentation this season to showcase her autumn/winter 2018 collection, ‘Love One Another’. The invite doesn’t give much away except stating, ‘have fun and make your mark’ with hand illustrations scattered across it.

Lulu Guinness said: “I don’t want to give too much away at this point, but I’ve created something which is fun, interactive and shareable on social media. What people like about my brand is the playful witty nature, so it will be a larger than life version of that.”

The presentations will include the brand's accessories collection, as well as footwear and ready-to-wear, which launched last summer.

Lulu Guinness will host her presentation on February 17.

6. Sophia Webster

One of the highlights every season has to be Sophia Webster and her highly creative presentations, over the season’s we’ve had a jungle rave, a winter wonderland, mermaids, and even a botanical garden, and for autumn/winter 2018 the invite teases ‘I Don’t Need A Mango To Tango’ with lots of red sequins. FashionUnited can’t wait to see what her presentation this season brings.

Sophia Webster will showcase her latest theatrical presentation on February 19.

7. Mulberry ‘Beyond Heritage’

Taking a step out of Burberry’s playbook, Mulberry is hosting its own consumer-focus event following its London Fashion Week show with ‘Beyond Heritage’. The British fashion house will be taking over eighteenth-century Spencer House in London and hosting a pop-up for its spring/summer 2018 collection, as well as a series of workshops and talks including a demonstration from its skilled leather artisans on how to make the brand’s most iconic bags and an in-conversation with creative director Johnny Coca.

The Mulberry LFW catwalk show takes place on February 16, followed by a two-day pop-up at Spencer House from February 17-18.

8. Fortie London named Merit Award winner

Fashion Scout is renowned for promoting the very best in emerging talent and this season it is championing Fortie London, the London-based label founded by Central St Martins graduate Essie Buckman, who they named as their Merit Award winner.

Fortie Label, which has been inspired by the Forty thieves, an all-female London crime syndicate who were infamously known for their antics from 19th to mid 20th century, has been gaining attention as an urban-luxe womenswear to watch for its attention to detail regarding textile development, where they often revert to traditional techniques in hand embroidery and hand painted prints on its pieces.

Fashion Scout’s founder and creative director Martyn Roberts said: “The brand was an easy decision for the judging panel to award Merit to, due to the intriguing fabric combinations and pattern cutting skills, mixed with strong cultural inspiration. Fashion Scout are excited to give Essie the opportunity to continue building the Fortie Label brand and profile here in London.”

Fortie Label will showcase its autumn/winter 2018 collection at Fashion Scout on February 16.

8 key moments not to miss this London Fashion Week

Image: courtesy of Fashion Scout

London Fashion Week runs from February 16 to February 20.

Main image: JW Anderson courtesy of London Fashion Week/British Fashion Council

Hugo Boss presents final Jason Wu collection at New York Fashion Week

Jason Wu is saying farewell to Hugo Boss. As the brand shifts its focus away from its womenswear business and more on its core men's, Wu will be departing the company as their womenswear artistic director. However, Wu gave his Hugo Boss ladies one last presentation at New York Fashion Week.

It might be a maximalist era, but Hugo Boss is not a maximalist brand. Instead, Wu built the fall/winter 2018 collection around minimalism and inspiration from New York-based artist Robert Morris.

Hugo Boss presents final Jason Wu collection at New York Fashion Week

Jason Wu departs Hugo Boss

Wu reimagined the Boss suit with a new feminine silhouette with more pronounced shoulders and a contoured waist for a very tailored look that still flattered the body. Long gone are the days of the boxy women's business suits that was overly borrowed from the boys, now business women are allowed to fashion. True to heritage and tradition, the half-canvassed interior featured detailed workmanship.

To avoid the collection looking too mundane, Wu played with exaggeration of proportions with shirts made from cotton and silk satin. Dropped shoulders and voluminous sleeves added just a hint of drama to a very approachable collection. There were great touches for those who sometimes play it safe when it comes to fashion, but still want something about their outfit to set them apart from the crowd.

Hugo Boss presents final Jason Wu collection at New York Fashion Week

The inspiration from Robert Morris also came through with tailoring fabrics like wool flannel and felt, which were updated with inventive cuts and drapes, or sliced into stripes and patched with satin and chiffon. Contrast color accentuated raw-cut edges, and mohair fabric softened fine, windowpane checks.

In alignment with the minimalist approach, the color palette featured neutrals of charcoal, dark navy and black. Electric blue and pale yellow were thrown in for pops of color.

Hugo Boss presents final Jason Wu collection at New York Fashion Week

Overall, it was a fine collection that was a successful rebellion against the maximalist trend, and ideal for the Hugo Boss customer who is typically more understated. It Jason Wu's final adieu, and a captivating one to behold.

photos: courtesy of the brand
Dennis Basso celebrates 35 years of the Basso woman

Anniversary marks always make for a great celebration at New York Fashion Week. This fall/winter 2018 at New York Fashion Week, designer Dennis Basso celebrated his 35 year anniversary with a collection he designed with every type of Basso woman in mind. While his customer was once just the quintessential upper east side lady, today's Basso woman is also found in SoHo, Chelsea, London, skiing in the mountains and dancing black tie at any glamorous city around the world. Of course she also loves fur, don't forget the fur.

The opening look was a barguzin, golden and grey sable coat paired with a black hologram shirt and grey sequin stripe pants. This was a look for more of the high-fashion party girl ready to jet set around the world. It was a fitting introduction as Basso prepared to take us around the world with all 70 looks from this season's collection.

Dennis Basso celebrates 35 years of the Basso woman

Dennis Basso celebrates every kind of Basso woman at NYFW

A midnight denim embroidered shirt and camel/red leather skirt was very downtown chic and fashion girl on travel. It also let us know that Basso is beginning to design for a younger generation. One of the most delicate balancing acts for a designer is how to keep the traditional customer happy while appealing to the new one, something Basso proved he has the skill to do. After a series of embroidered pants and crepe trousers, the designer sent a honey embroidered gown down the runway.

He not only knows how to do the casual, but he's still a master of evening wear as well. From embroidery to fur trims, Basso knows how to do it all. A grey celestial embroidered gown had that perfect princess touch worthy of the red carpet and a black hologram dress was worthy of the gala's that many of Basso's clientele frequent.

With this collection Basso proved he's learned how eclectic his clientele has become. As a designer, he's learn to diversify his aesthetic, making it no secret how he's survived 35 years in an industry where designers are often in and out.

photos credit Catwalkpictures

Bright colors, bold prints and sportiness were the core essence of Ricardo Seco's fall/winter 2018 at New York Fashion Week. There was also one other element that couldn't go ignored: the political. Seco is crusading on with his anti-Trump message as statements like ""You can call me DACA but I'm the result of a dream come true ... I am an American," and ""DREAM," were emblazoned across his clothes.

A post shared by Ricardo Seco (@secoricardo) on

While most designers have softened on being so blatantly anti-Trump this season and have instead focused on women's empowerment, Seco is still going strong with spelling out his progressive message. Gone are the days when fashion and politics didn't go hand in hand, now the two can't exist without each other. Seco, who is Mexican himself, used fashion to celebrate America as the cultural melting pot it is.

A post shared by Ricardo Seco (@secoricardo) on

This was not only done through his use of actually spelled out messages, but, also, through his use of color and patterns. Just like how America is a collage of different people of all different races and ethnicities, his collection was a collage of colors and patterns that blended together to create something beautiful. There's power when you aren't afraid to let diverse things come together.

A post shared by Ricardo Seco (@secoricardo) on

It's not often that color in a collection can have such a subliminal message, but lest we forget what fashion has the power to do. In these trying times, we can look to fashion to empower us, for inspiration and to let the public know we won't be silenced. Seco was here for all of the aforementioned, culminating in an eclectic and inspiring collection.

Tibi provides lessons in wearability at New York Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week is often a scene for the avant-garde and over the top when it comes to what is sent down the runways. There's always the question of who will wear that, and can that dress go anywhere but the red carpet. However, designer Amy Smilovic gave her audience and her customers a very wearable and stylish collection this season at NYFW.

Smilovic knows how to take today's trends and play with them safely to create a collection that is approachable, but not boring. She isn't afraid to play with colors and colorblock, but she knows how to do a dress, a blazer and a pair of trousers for everybody.

Tibi provides lessons in wearability at New York Fashion Week

The opening look was a pair of khaki high-waisted trousers and khaki trench coat with an orange sweater. Neutrals were juxtaposed against brighter colors and floral patterns for that traditionally more understated woman who wanted something to get her out of her comfort zone. A bright purple sweater with voluminous sleeves was paired with a micro-check pattern skirt, taking louder statements and mixing them with more subtle ones.

To anyone who also ever wondered how to wear a bright orange faux fur jacket, the answer is with a pink high neck line jumpsuit and a pair of blue heels. The Tibi woman doesn't shy away from color, she knows how to be both bold with it, and how to pair it down with a khaki jacket or oversized navy blazer when the time is right.

The silhouettes were oversized, but still managed to be flattering. This season, Smilovic gave modest looks to the contemporary woman who wants to live her life elevated. Tibi's customers want to pop, but be relaxed at ease in a chic, loose cut sweater.

photo credit: Catwalk pictures
A-list gets in the popcorn at Calvin Klein during NYFW

A-list stars Nicole Kidman, Lupita Nyong'o and Margot Robbie flocked to Calvin Klein on Tuesday, wading through popcorn to watch Raf Simons's latest meditation on Americana, where firefighter meets prairie.

The Belgian's stewardship of the iconic US label, now into a second year, is one of the few bright spots in a New York Fashion Week suffering from an identity crisis, thinning schedule and a glut between the passing of one generation and the search for another. Ruby Sterling again designed the set. Barns evoked the pioneer spirit of the prairies, adorned with work by Andy Warhol -- also to be seen on Calvin Klein underwear -- and a room ankle deep in popcorn.

A-list gets in the popcorn at Calvin Klein during NYFW

Model of the moment Kaia Gerber, 16, walked the runway, dressed in waders, watched by proud parents Cindy Crawford and Rande Gerber. Simons said the collection evolved his window-onto-America theme for his Calvin Klein, this time referencing the discovery of America, the 1960s space race and the 21st century information age.

He said it was about freedom, democracy and no cultural hierarchy, listing 50 words in place of 50 states that included pioneer, firefighter, prairie, industrial and, of course, popcorn. Clothes ticked the modesty trend for 2018 fall/winter, full skirts practically to the ground and boxy outerwear, with models kitted out in knitted balaclavas or hijab-inspired hats shielding hair and neck.

A-list gets in the popcorn at Calvin Klein during NYFW

There was an emergency responder vibe in orange outerwear and pants, fluorescent strips on jackets, giant wader-style boots over the knee in both shiny black and white and baggy sweaters. Giant silver gloves tapped the oven mitten look, a space-age version of the Ralph Lauren's tasselled beige numbers that divided opinion for the US Winter Olympics team in Pyeongchang.

There was a utilitarian, workman-like feel, and clear odes to America -- patchwork quilts and red checked fannel. Yet however striking and original, it did not shriek wearable. Simons's tenure at Calvin Klein has been applauded by critics and the label's recent underwear ad featuring the Kardashian sisters was YouTube's most-watched commercial last month with 15.4 million hits.

Considered one of the finest designers of his generation, the 50-year-old previously breathed new life into Dior after John Galliano was fired in 2012 for anti-Semitic insults in a Paris bar. Fashion Week closes Wednesday with shows by Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs, before the season flits to London, Milan and Paris. Here are the other standouts of the penultimate day in the Big Apple.

A-list gets in the popcorn at Calvin Klein during NYFW

Twisted romance

Selena Gomez, the current face of Coach, was guest of honor in the front row, wearing a black leather jacket and long floral dress, capturing something of the gothic, city meets nature, romance of the collection. But if "twisted, dark romance" was one of the themes, there was no sign of off-again-on-again squeeze Justin Bieber, with whom she has reportedly recently reunited to the chagrin of her family.

Models paraded up and down a darkened woodland set, a kind of spooky movie vibe with puffs of dry ice at the end, fall leaves crunching under foot and nude tree trunks with overhanging branches. It was a blend of goth, the preference for all black dressing beloved by non-conforming English teenagers in the 1990s, with the supernatural, a juxtaposition of America's Southwest with New York. Coach also released for immediate sale a Dreamer satchel bag, a name much in collective US discourse to denote children brought illegally as immigrants by their parents, now threatened with deportation.

The label, begun in 1941 as a family-run workshop, has thrived under British executive creative director, Stuart Vevers. "When I was growing up, I remember people would shout after me in the street 'freak!' And this was about celebrating that strength and confidence in being yourself," the 44-year-old said of the goth look.

A-list gets in the popcorn at Calvin Klein during NYFW

Auf wiedersehen

Canadian designer Jason Wu presented his last collection for Hugo Boss, where he as been artistic director of womenswear since June 2013. Wu is leaving to concentrate on his own label. His last presentation for the German house was inspired by the work of US minimalist artist Robert Morris and focused on bold tailoring. Hugo Boss is yet to name a successor for Wu. (AFP)

Photos: Calvin Klein, © 2018 Giovanni Giannoni

Gemma Hoi makes factory workers fashionable at New York Fashion Week

For her fall/winter 2018 collection, designer Gemma Hoi took us on a time traveling journey to the 1940s. It was during that time period that female factory workers were on the rise as and they got their own uniform. Unbeknownst to many, denim played a very unique role in shaping female gender roles.

Gemma Hoi makes factory workers fashionable at New York Fashion Week

The fabric, which to this day is one of the most classic and utilitarian in American history, was part of the second wave of feminism as women were able to take on blue collar jobs traditionally held by men. This fueled the inspiration for Hoi's designs from start to finish of her collection.

Gemma Hoi makes factory workers fashionable at New York Fashion Week

“This collection seeks to bring the audience back into the 1940s, to relive the days when denim and the women of today were still young, and when the story has yet to be told," Hoi said.

With this collection, Hoi was able to expand the definition of denim to include cropped denim with a quilted skirt attached, an asymmetrical denim jacket paired with a white dress and a low-cut denim dress with voluminous sleeves. These different outfits showed us the variety of different ways denim can be worn, and how denim has become a material for any occasion. Gone are the days of it as a strictly utilitarian material, it can be dressed up or down, and made avant garde.

Gemma Hoi makes factory workers fashionable at New York Fashion Week

This collection seeks to bring the audience back into the 1940s, to relive the days when denim and the women of today were still young, and when the story has yet to be told. This journey will explore and expand the definition of denim with new shapes and details, bringing a new page of narration on American style to life.

photos: courtesy of Globe Fashion Week
Claudia Li presented the modern princess at New York Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week is no stranger to seeing a few princess gowns go down the runway. However, this season at New York Fashion Week, designer Claudia Li decided to give us a modern take on a princess. Her fall/winter 2018 collection was inspired by the Turkish fairytale "The Silent Princess."

Claudia Li presented the modern princess at New York Fashion Week

She presented a series of dresses, outerwear pieces and accessories that took the classic idea of a princess and put her in the shoes of today's modern woman. Brightly colored and patterned fabrics juxtaposed shearling and heavy wool pieces. Embellishments and crystal accents were also big in this collection with plenty of sequins and Swarovski rhinestone buttons.

Claudia Li presented the modern princess at New York Fashion Week

Claudia Li does fairytale inspired collection for NYFW

Coats, tops and dresses were featured in houndstooth wool, jacquards and woodland scene patterns. Elements of nature played a big part in patterns like floral patterns, peacocks and a pattern of a woman at a tree. Other details included double pleated skirts with metallic weaves. There was a lot of shimmer here to add to the whimsical elements of the collection.

Claudia Li presented the modern princess at New York Fashion Week

In terms of silhouettes, there were clean column lines for a relaxed fit, as today's modern princess wants to be more comfortable. Suiting pieces had a regal, tailored look, but didn't read as constricting.

Claudia Li presented the modern princess at New York Fashion Week

This season, Claudia Li also introduced two new shoe styles for fall including a bootie and a pump featuring the designer's signature oversized tab. The 'Kete' bag from spring/summer has also been reinvented, featuring a solid leather rectangular shape available in black and forest green as well as larger style with Mongolian curly shearling trim.

photos: courtesy of Linda Gaunt Communications