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Ibiza Fashion Week kicks of with emerging talent

Ibiza’s ‘Fashion Week’ will kick off its 46th Adlib Ibiza Runway from May 18 to 20 at the Port of Ibiza. Following three days of fashion shows, the event will feature women’s and men’s clothing, jewellery and accessories by 28 designers. Also the Futur Adlib Award is being awarded to promote and support local emerging design talent.

Over a period of three days, 28 designers will showcase their SS18 collection. The first day will showcase collections from the Futur Adlib project. A project supported by Ibiza’s Government to promote and encourage local young designers. For day two and three, the collections have been divided into the following categories: “Adlib Essence”, “Adlib Avant-garde”, “Boho-Chic” and “Jewelry & Accessories”.

Consell d’Eivissa said, “We are extremely excited to organize a new edition of Adlib Ibiza Runway. Adlib Ibiza is truly unique, exclusive and different from the other brands as it genuinely reflects the culture of the island.”

Adlib Ibiza Runway started in 1971 as an annual event for designers in Ibiza to showcase their designs.

Image: Ibiza Fashion Week

Los Angeles - This year, Moschino is opting for Los Angeles for its upcoming fashion show. The brand just announced that it will be showing its menswear 2018 spring collection in Hollywood this June.

The show will also take place alongside the brand’s women’s resort show. Creative director Jeremy Scott currently resides in the city of the show’s new location. After living there for some time, it seems fitting that the luxury brand would choose the city for its new collections. The fashion show will take place on June 8 at Milk Studios in Hollywood.

Established in 1983, Moschino has been known for its surreal designs and edgy styles. With graphic t-shirts as well as cashmere pieces, the label has grown iconic over the years, especially in Los Angeles. Over the years, many celebrities and fashion icons have worn the label including Selena Gomez, Miley Cyrus, Rita Ora, Ariana Grande and many more. Returning to the city with a new show is one way that the label is embracing its L.A. audience, showing off its collections in a fresh venue.

Read more background? Click here: Moschino confirms Los Angeles fashion show this summer
Givenchy skipping Paris Men's Fashion Week

Givenchy has announced that it will be skipping Paris Men's Fashion Week and Paris Couture Week this summer during the coming round of men's runway shows and presentations.

Recently appointed creative director Clare Waight Keller will show her collection at Paris Fashion Week in October.

The men's spring 2018 collection, which was designed by the brand's in-house team, will be shown via appointments to buyers from June 27 to July 1.

Waight Keller's first couture collection for the house will be shown at Couture Week in January 2018.

Waight Keller is expected to bring back a more refined, and classic aesthetic to Givenchy. She is the brand's sixth couturier and the first woman at the helm.

Prior to Givenchy, she was the designer for Chloé, where she feminine and captivating designs to the brand. Givenchy is expected to move away from the more gothic, architectural inspired designs done under her predecessor Ricardo Tisci.

Her success with leather goods at Chloé will hopefully translate at Givenchy, as they are looking to boost sales in that category.

Photo: via Givenchy Facebook

Guest designers selected for Couture Week

The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture has announced their guest members for this July's Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week.

Two American brands have the distinction of showing, namely Rodarte and Proenza Schouler. Both brands recently announced that they will be departing from the New York Fashion Week calendar in favor of Paris.

The other three brands that earned guest slots at Couture Week include Azzaro, A.F. Vandevorst and Ronald van der Kemp.

The departure of brands like Proenza Schouler and Rodarte from New York Fashion Week begs two questions: whether the brands have simply outgrown New York, and if NYFW is no longer seen as cool as it was in the past?

While designers, like Tom Ford, have come back to New York because they feel it gets more global media attention, when a major American brand like Proenza Schouler forfeits their place at New York for another major fashion capital, it does send a signal.

With NYFW recently being shortened by one day, the scale back says that the demand to show in New York isn't what it used to be.

Photo: via Proenzaschouler.com

CFDA shortens New York Fashion Week

Admit it, despite the glamour and thrill of seeing all the new collections, Fashion Week can be a bit exhausting. The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) has taken note of this time and time again, but now, they have finally done something about it. The spring 2018 calendar for New York Fashion Week will be one day shorter, with Marc Jacobs still closing the shows on Wednesday September 6, at 6:30 p.m.

Previously, the shows officially ran from Thursday to the following Thursday, but some brands have begun showing as early as Wednesday, and a few even starting to show on Tuesday. Between over a week of shows, often back-to-back, editors, buyers and stylists were beginning to feel the grueling process of New York Fashion Week. It's also no longer like back in the day when the vast majority of shows were centralized at Bryant Park. Now, they are scattered all over the city from Midtown to Downtown, with the main venues at Skylight Clarkson Square.

New York Fashion Week calendar to be shorter by one day

Calvin Klein will be opening New York Fashion Week next season with a show on Thursday at 10 a.m. Tom Ford will also be showing that same day at 7 p.m.

While other time slot changes are still in the works, there has been no official announcement on how the new official schedule will look yet.

Many designers have announced they are opting out of New York Fashion Week all together. Proenza Schouler will now be showing on the Haute Couture calendar in Paris. Rodarte will also be opting out of New York Fashion Week and will do a presentation in Paris instead.

The notable absences from the calendar perhaps resulted in the shortening of the week. It's also no secret that the CFDA is trying to find a way to bring back appeal to the event which has been losing both attendees and designers. Perhaps this is just part one to their formula?

Photo: via New York Fashion Week Facebook page

Diesel Black Gold to go coed this June

London - Diesel Black Gold has jumped on the coed bandwagon and is set to merge its menswear and womenswear shows from June.

Both lines from the Italian label, designed by creative director Andreas Melbostad, will be shown during Men's Fashion Week in Milan. The combined show aims to strengthen the link between menswear and womenswear, which revolves around individualism and freedom from established divisions. Melbostad, who was hired in 2012 to oversee the creative direction of the brand's womenswear and later took on responsibility for the label's menswear line, designs modern, basic pieces which sit in line with the authentic concept of Diesel.

Diesel Black Gold to go coed this June

"With today's culture moving towards less gender conformity, combining the men's and women's shows feels like a natural step for us," said Diesel Black Gold creative director Andreas Melbostad in a statement. "With this new strategy, we can better communicate our creative vision when we launch our collections. It gives more momentum to our ideas about fashion, and at the same time makes the creative process a lot more challenging."

The collections from Diesel Black Gold will not be unisex, unlike some other others. Rather the coed shows will consist of 50 percent menswear and 50 percent womenswear. In addition to presenting its womenswear and menswear collections side by side in January and June, Diesel Black Gold is also set to reduce the number of collections it launches per year. The label is set to release two womenswear collections per year instead of four, while the pre-collections for men will remain alongside of the main collections.

"I have always been a big supporter of co-ed shows," adds Renzo Rosso, president of Diesel's parent company OTB. "We actually launched Diesel Black Gold in New York with a men's and women's show at the very beginning. Diesel Black Gold is now a point of reference for the contemporary market and it became crucial to communicate a strong, cohesive seasonal message."

Diesel Black Gold continues to focus on Europe and the US and is set to expand in the Middle East. However over the next three years the label aims to focus on expanding its presence in Asia, in particular strengthening its position in the Chinese market.

Photos: Courtesy of Diesel Black Gold

London - Emporio Armani has decided to relocate its fashion week show once more and is set to show its Spring/Summer 2018 collection in London on September 17.

The Italian label's show will coincide with the opening of Emporio Armani recently renovated Bond Street store. The move sees Emporio Armani return to London Fashion Week after more than a decade.

"London — dynamic, energetic and cosmopolitan — represents global culture, so it’s the perfect setting for my Emporio Armani collection," said Giorgio Armani to WWD. "After my ‘One Night Only’ event in 2006, I’m thrilled to be returning to London to unveil the new concept at the Bond Street store, bearing witness to the brand’s strong bond with the British people."

A post shared by Armani (@armani) on

The decision follows on from last year's move, when the designer decided to hold Emporio Armani's Spring/Summer 2017 fashion show is Paris, which coincided with the renovation of the label's store and its Café on Boulevard Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

The move sees Giorgio Armani continue to roll-out the company's new strategy, which sees the designer reorganise his labels and shutter Armani Collezioni and Armani Jeans to focus on the company's core brands Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani and A|X Armani Exchange. By Spring/Summer 2018 the former two brands will have been mixed into Armani's three main labels in order to attract a wider customer base and streamline his collections.

Gucci cruise show to be staged in Florence

Gucci's next cruise show will be staged in Florence on May 29 at the Palatina Gallery at Pitti Place. It is the first time Palatina Gallery will stage a fashion show.

Gucci has come together with the gallery as part of a cultural project with Uffizi Gallery and the city of Florence, as Gucci will be donating 2.2 million dollars to restore the Boboli Gardens which the Palatina Gallery overlooks.

Gucci is known for it's one-of-a-kind spots for their Cruise shows. The brand held their 2017 cruise pre-collection show at the Cloisters of Westminster Abby. It was the first time the famous church had ever been used for a fashion show. Their 2016 cruise show was held in New York City.

Gucci staging cruise show in Florence

Under creative director Alessandro Michele, Gucci has moved on from its stagnant days under Frida Giannini, and has seen robust sales growth.

His designs have become the favorite of red carpet celebrities and Fashion Week street style stars. There has not been a season since his tenure as creative director where you can walk through Fashion Week without seeing someone wearing one of his pieces whether it be his Gucci Princetown slippers or Dionysus handbags.

His more global approach to the Cruise shows is helping the brands, as they bring attention and demand to consumers in major markets such as New York, London, and Florence.

photo:via Gucci.com
In Pictures: Portugal Fashion

The 40th edition of Portugal Fashion, held from 22 to 25 March in the cities of Lisbon and Porto, has ended. During the event Portugal Fashion showed the great strength of Portuguese fashion industry once again and consolidated the autonomy of its platform for young designers.

In Pictures: Portugal Fashion

Portugal Fashion showed a total of 31 fashion shows, including 15 designers, 6 clothing brands, 6 footwear brands, and 10 young designers, as well as several alternative events featuring brands like Pedro Neto, Alexandra Moura, David Catalan and Nuno Baltazar. The building of the Customs of Porto served as the backdrop for the event which hosted 17 parades and a showroom dedicated to domestic and foreign buyers. Here are a few highlights from Portugal Fashion below.

In Pictures: Portugal Fashion

Images: Portugal Fashion

Innovative fabrics bark up Tokyo fashion tree at TFW

Wood fashioned into lace and sculpted into evening dresses: the Hanae Mori Manuscrit label led the way this Tokyo Fashion Week in showing the world the original craftmanship that helps set Japan apart from the crowd.

D resses of persimmon wood lace paired with soft falling black fabric were the star of the show at designer Yu Amatsu's autumn/winter 2017 collection for the brand that left fashionistas giddy with excitement. Discs of chestnut and walnut were used on a dress of interlocking triangular panels, an homage to Issey Miyake's iconic Bao Bao bag, while wood was fashioned into sleeve ties and delicate butterfly hair pieces.

Innovative fabrics bark up Tokyo fashion tree at TFW

Japan is famous for high-tech and specialty fabrics, which not only supply the likes of Chanel and other celebrated couture houses, but also provide constantly shifting inspiration for homegrown designers. Misha Janette, a Tokyo-based stylist, creative director and blogger who has lived in Japan since 2004, said Japanese fashion was often less about entertainment and more thoughtful with "amazing" material.

"They're really, really keen on working with young designers to create new fabrics... that sets them apart," she told AFP. "Each little village has its own special kind of fabric." Amatsu said the theme of his collection was "combine" -- combining fabrics to create something that was both different and more beautiful.

Innovative fabrics bark up Tokyo fashion tree at TFW

3-D silhouette

The persimmon was originally very hard. "Even the sewing machine needle couldn't go through it," he explained. So he striped it down to 0.14 millimeters wide and bonded it with fabric to make it stronger. He then stitched it into a lace butterfly pattern. "It's quite heavy so when you move with the dress it makes a 3-D silhouette," he told AFP.

Throughout he was careful to preserve the colour of the wood, making it look almost like pencil shavings or delicately processed tree bark, and there were belts and statement bags in the same material.

Inspiration comes from the world at large. "I'm always looking around to find something interesting which can be key for new designs, like the movies, music, architecture and so on," he told AFP. But wood was far from the only innovative fabric on the runway this Tokyo Fashion Week, which showcased the work of 52 designers.

Innovative fabrics bark up Tokyo fashion tree at TFW

Husband-and-wife label ROGGYKEI, known best for dressing US superstar Lady Gaga a handful of times, bases itself in Japan's second city of Osaka to be close to specialist fabric factories. The pair have no plans to relocate, recognising their "made in Japan" heritage was a big boon when they exhibited in Paris in 2012.

Good technique

The fabric is 50 percent polyester, 50 percent wool, which designers Hitoshi and Keiko Korogi said makes it more supple. They also use some processed fabrics which they dye and wash. There was a stole made out of a special cashmere woven from Mongolian yarn in Japan's Nara and coated to make it washable and yet prevent pilling. They presented tie-dyed and indigo-dyed stoles too.

ROGGYKEI also used discarded pieces of cloth that would otherwise have been thrown out, and mixed natural materials and chemical fibre. But at least one Japanese designer with an emphasis on cutting edge fabrics admitted to shopping elsewhere. Takuya Morikawa offered a high-energy, Americana-inspired collection of silk dresses, fur and a maroon velvet jumpsuit for label TAAKK, which he set up in 2012 after working for Issey Miyake.

"All the fabrics are originals," he told reporters. "The jacquards were made in Japan, but I had the embroidery made in China and India as it would have cost a lot to do in such good quality here." "Of course Japan has good technique, but I am not too hung up on it. I'd rather use good things from everywhere in the world." (AFP)

Photos: Roggykei, Hanae Mori Manuscrit AW17, Tokyo Fashion Week. Courtesy of Amazon Tokyo Fashion Week